Favorite European Seaside Bars

Memorable settings, drinks, food, and people – travel professional Rick Steves takes us to nine of his favorite European seaside bars.

August is vacation time in Europe. Entire towns seem to shut down as locals head to seaside escapes, eager to enjoy unforgettable beaches and the culture that comes with them. Let’s close our eyes, tune in to the rhythm of the waves, picture a sunset glinting through a drink in your hand, and join them. Here are some of my favorite seaside bars in Europe.

European seaside bars for your itinerary

In Dubrovnik, Croatia

The “Buža” bar offers, without a doubt, the most scenic spot for a drink in Dubrovnik. Perched on a cliff above the sea, clinging like a barnacle to the outside of the city walls, this is a peaceful, shaded getaway from the bustle of the Old Town … the perfect place to watch cruise ships disappear into the horizon. “Buža” means “hole in the wall” – and that’s exactly what you’ll have to go through to get to this place.

In Istanbul, Turkey

The double-decker Galata Bridge spans the Golden Horn, a historic inlet that separates the old and new towns of Istanbul. And all along both the horn and the bridge, you’ll find dozens of inviting, no-name bars. Find a place to nurse some Turkish specialties: Drink an unfiltered, highly caffeinated “Turkish coffee” (which leaves a thick coating of “mud” in the bottom) or a cup of tea, and suck on a water pipe filled with flavorful dried fruit.

In Salema, Portugal

One bit of old Algarve magic still glitters quietly in the sun – Salema. This simple fishing village has three beachside streets, many restaurants, a few hotels, a couple of bars, a classic beach with a paved promenade, and endless sun. The Atlântico – right on the beach – is known for its tasty fresh fish, fun drinks, friendly service, and a wonderful beachside terrace.

In Nerja, Spain

Ayo (www.ayonerja.com) is famous for its character of an owner and its beachside all-you-can-eat paella feast at lunchtime. For decades, Ayo – a lovable ponytailed bohemian who promises to be here until he dies – has been feeding locals. The paella fires get stoked up at about noon. Grab one of many tables under the canopy next to the rustic, open-fire cooking zone, and enjoy the Burriana Beach setting with a jug of sangria.

In Villefranche-sur-Mer, France

In the glitzy world of the French Riviera, Villefranche-sur-Mer offers travelers an easygoing slice of small-town Mediterranean life. Luxury sailing yachts glisten in the bay – an inspiration to those lazing along the harborfront to start saving their money when their trips are over. Lou Bantry (www.restaurant-lou-bantry.fr/) feels nautical, with blue and white tables and umbrellas bellying up to the edge of the harbor. Spill your rosé, and it’s in the sea.

In Vernazza, Italy

Ristorante Belforte’s (www.ristorantebelforte.it) tiny balcony lets you sip your “vino della Cinque Terre” overlooking the Mediterranean from the edge of a stony castle. You can feel the mist from the surf crashing below on the Vernazza breakwater. And the views of the ancient vineyard terracing all around you makes the experience a highlight.

In Conwy, Wales

This Welsh town, watched over by its protective castle, has a particularly charming harbor. On summer evenings, the action on the quay is mellow, multigenerational, and perfectly Welsh. Everyone is here enjoying the local cuisine – “chips,” ice cream, and beer – and savoring that great British pastime: chasing little crabs. Facing the harbor, The Liverpool Arms pub was built by a captain in the 19th century. Today it remains a salty and characteristic hangout.

In Staithes, England

A ragamuffin village where the boy who became Captain James Cook got his first taste of the sea, Staithes is a salty jumble of cottages bunny-hopping down a ravine into a tiny harbor on the North Sea. There’s nothing to do but stroll the beach and nurse a harborside beer or ice cream. The Cod and Lobster (www.codandlobster.co.uk), overlooking the harbor, has scenic outdoor benches and a cozy living room warmed by a fire.

In Solvorn, Norway

Walaker Hotel, a former inn and coach station, has been run by the Walaker family since 1690 (that’s a lot of pressure on ninth-generation owner Ole Henrik). The hotel, set right on the Lustrafjord, has a garden perfect for relaxing and, if necessary, even convalescing. I love to savor my coffee and dessert on the balcony with a fjordside setting – mesmerized by Norwegian mountains.

Skäl, Santé, Na zdravje, Prost — Cheers! Europe is full of romantic waterfront spots, perfect to grab a drink and slow your pulse. Feel the breeze, smell the sea, and enjoy the cry of the gulls – it could turn out to be your ultimate European moment.

PHOTO CAPTION, TOP: Ayo has been cooking up beachside paella for decades in Nerja, Spain, at one of Rick Steves’ favorite European seaside bars. CREDIT: Rick Steves, Rick Steves’ Europe.

Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European guidebooks, hosts travel shows on public TV and radio, and organizes European tours. This column revisits some of Rick’s favorite places over the past two decades. Read more European adventures in For the Love of Europe. His latest book, “On the Hippie Trail: Istanbul to Kathmandu and the Making of a Travel Writer,” reveals journal entries from his 1970s journey, which ignited his love of travel and broadened his perspective on the world. You can email Rick at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.

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