To Monument Valley, Utah and Arizona
Take a Hike! with Nick Thomas for easier options for seeing natural beauty
A trip to Monument Valley, straddling Utah and Arizona, can feed a bit of nostalgia while immersing you in the therapy of outdoor travel. Nick Thomas takes us there.
If you’re a die-hard fan of old western movies, especially those featuring John Wayne, but have never made the pilgrimage to Monument Valley, it’s definitely a trip to consider. Five of Wayne’s movies contain scenes from the iconic location, including “Stagecoach” in 1939, “She Wore a Yellow Ribbon” 10 years later and, what many would argue was his best western, “The Searchers” in 1956.
Dotted with towering sandstone buttes (steep-sided formations with broad, flat tops rising up to 1,000 feet), these natural “monuments” stand within a valley that straddles the Utah-Arizona border. Many of the buttes have names, including the West and East Mitten Buttes on the Arizona side, so-named because of rock projections resembling thumbs on a mitten. They are clearly visible just before the Indian attack scene around the 1-hour 9-minute mark into “Stagecoach.” The area is also surrounded by some of the American Southwest’s most spectacular National Parks, including Arches, Canyonlands, Zion, and the Grand Canyon, all must-see destinations in their own right.
Entry to the park, officially called Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, is $8 per person (children under 12, free). While there are several trails within the Monument Valley area, only one is self-guided: the 3.9-mile Wildcat Trail that starts near the hotel parking area and takes about 2 hours to complete. All other tours require guides and last from 1½ to 2½ hours and cost extra ($78 to $132).
The Wildcat Trail is sandy and begins with a slow descent into the valley, eventually leading to the West Mitten. Calling it spectacular would be an understatement. This is sacred Indian land, so hikers must remain on the trail and make no attempt to climb the butte. While summer is a busy season with tourists pouring in from all over the world, it can also be brutally hot in the canyon, so take the necessary precautions (hat, water, sunscreen). The most challenging part of the hike is the return – an uphill climb (with some up and down sections) while walking in sand. So be sure everyone in your party can handle a 2-hour western summer hike.
You can also enjoy Monument Valley from the air-conditioned comfort of your car by taking the 17-mile scenic drive. When we last visited, I would have rated the condition of the road as one of the worst I have ever travelled without a four-wheel drive vehicle. The potholes and bumps along this dirt road meant we could barely go over 5 mph and if I’d had false teeth, they would have been dropping in my lap throughout the drive. I’m not sure whether the road is periodically maintained or left in the poor state to slow drivers down, but a quick check online revealed comments like “notoriously rough” and “challenging for low-clearance vehicles.” Nevertheless, take it slow and the views will be amazing.
Whether planning to hike or drive, an especially good time to visit is on a partly sunny day. It’s hard to take a bad Monument Valley photo when the deep blue western sky is sprinkled with white fluffy clouds hovering over the iron-rich red/orange buttes. You’ll bring home vivid desert photo memories that are always fun to try and match with scenes from a Duke Wayne film.
PHOTO CAPTION, TOP: Monument Valley scenic drive showing the West and East Mitten Buttes. Credit: Nick Thomas.
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Nick Thomas teaches at Auburn University at Montgomery in Alabama and has written features, columns, and interviews for many newspapers and magazines. His “It’s A Wonderful Hike” website describes short trails, hikes, and walks from around the country that seniors might enjoy while traveling. See www.itsawonderfulhike.com.
